Shot out of the Skye

Please see two postings due to lack of coverage:

The next day I was pretty wiped from riding, and took a half day off to visit the Eilean Donan castle, which a short walk from the hotel. The castle, like many others, had a long history of fighting the English, the Vikings, Celts, and inter-clan battles and it changed hands many times. Once there were many such castles along the coasts. The story goes there were two 50-cannon ships laying siege to the castle for days, but they gave up trying to penetrate the 12 foot thick stone walls, instead deciding to blow it up with twenty some odd barrels of gunpowder. The castle was in ruin for years until it was restored by one of the clans heirs, and as such, much of the property is private. What they did not recreate, however, the iron maidens that hung from either side of the approach bridge which was detailed in the historical paintings. These were brutal times, with even more unsaid, I'm sure. The tour was more museum like, with paintings, artifacts, family trees etc. I think they sugarcoated it a bit. Narrow staircases wind between the walls access the upper levels, and I found these most curious, but are closed to the public safety reasons.

It was about noon when I left for the island of Skye, which is widely known as one of the most scenic areas of Scotland, where tall and steep mountains meet the sea. Due to my late start and poor weather, I decided to stop short of my destination, not realizing how popular Skye would be. I started looking around 3:00, and tried dozens of places of all types and rates that had no vacancy. Poor cell coverage and ongoing rain made the problem worse, until I was desperate to find something or another. I decided to get back off the island where there would be less crowds, and I did find a bed and breakfast about 10 miles away that worked out well. I even got some laundry done. I considered re-attempting the island the next day, but with more poor weather on the horizon, risk of lodging, and no firm plans, I decided it best to head out.

The next morning I took the ferry off the island. The rocking ship set off car alarms that I thought was both funny and annoying. Do people really think there car will be stolen on a ferry? From here I continued riding south. These areas are also remote, harboring some of the last remaining native forests and many historic lochs. I stopped to read many of the 'info-boards' that covered history and wildlife efforts. There is also warnings for “rapidly changing weather” to take to heed. Lack of infrastructure meant a widespread cash-only policy that caught me off guard, and I had to turn away from one B&B because of it.

Frankly, the elements were really starting to hammer me down. Rain, cold, wind, difficult riding, and lack of information made me more vulnerable then I'd like. A consistent lack of vacancies (and other services) and shortage of paper funds have made things more stressful. I have used my paper maps more then ever before, and internet calling has come in handy when only wifi is available. I have my rain gear, but I've seen people riding in plastic ponchos which makes me cringe. I fill me thermos every morning, which is great relief when the times are tough.

I was riding along one of these remote roads when I noticed a pounding from my rear wheel. I assumed there was something stuck on, or stuck to the tire, only to find out the tire was completely warn out by the coarse road surfaces. Some threads were showing through the tread, and the sidewalls were bulged out, such I didn't feel safe riding much further. This was out of cell coverage, and was one of those, “now what” moments. To be fair, one driver did offer to help, but I had already started on a plan out. I switched front and back tires, and reinforced the hole the best I could with tube patches and duct tape. I under inflated it, and gingerly rode to the closest hotel that would accept plastic, another night of desperation and great expense. After discussing the situation with the innkeeper, he suggested I take the bike on the bus to Fort Williams, and get to the bike shop there. The bus would not accept the bike, so I went on my own, bought the tire in town, and returned to install it later that same afternoon. It rained the whole day, so I didn't feel like I was missing out on much. I did see many streams and waterfalls along the way, that looked like white lines against the hills that went up into the fog. I plan on heading out again tomorrow morning, to the Island of Mull. I only hope the weather will cooperate. 

More photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/121074638@N08/