A cannon ball and a catchers mitt

Again, much has happened from my last post and I'll try to be complete and concise as I can, as I'm already starting to get fuzzy on the details :) My last post I was debating on doing the Ring of Kerry, which I did do partly encouraged bu the signed bike route that would take me off major roads. Again, the route was signed in the wrong direction, sending me backwards before I remained on the more dangerous main roads. I was able to break off here and there, but I still don't understand these one way bike routes. I was able to get to Cahersiveen in one day, where I stopped early to explore the old Barracks that was used to protect where the first transatlantic cable made landfall. There was also some interesting history on Daniel O'Connor, Irish abolitionist. I had dinner in an old pub with my first open peat fire. I smell many of these along with the briny ocean winds as I go along. The next day was more touring then cycling, were I saw an castle, ring fort, two cliff vistas, two good climbs, oh, and a chocolate factory :) My favorite castles are the ones you can walk around and explore somewhat unrestricted. With a little climbing and crawling you can really get into these old structures at your own risk, but I took great knowing a banged knee or twisted ankle could be bad news for remainder of my trip. I nearly visited the Skellig Islands were a famous UNESCO monastery stands, but the weather was to bad to land a boat there, and I had to settle with the shore side exhibit. I thought about staying an extra day, but there were no guarantees of good weather. The images look amazing as the story of the people who built these civilizations on the steep rocky islands. Apparently parts of the new Star Wars movie where shot there, Luke's new home.

I had my first bad hostel experience where an drunk host turned off the building's power because, apparently, we had the lights on too long. This really didn't sit well with me. This act, along with a cluttered and dirty place, staring feeling like a horror movie. I used my bike light to quickly pack up my things and leave around midnight. I left with one other guest who found a B&B to take us in (separate rooms), but I was ready to pull out the tent if need be.

I was off to Kenmare, where I only stayed one night at a much better B&B. Staying to the official listings, or ones with good reviews, I think. There was a nice rock circle, and a harpist playing in the pub, but otherwise not much going on. Interesting to just sit and read a newspaper. 

I then started running each of the peninsulas down south, continuing to follow the Wild Atlantic Way wherever I could. There are mostly quiet areas with colorful little towns. The rocky peninsulas ride more like mounting tops, and some there are some steep and twisty sections getting from one of each peninsula to the other. Most of the days have been cool in the morning, where leg warmers, ear warmers, gloves etc. come off as the day goes on. I was down to shorts and a t-shirt for some of the longer climbs, but I always zipper up for the windchill of the descents. Wind has and rain has been good, which is a huge plus.

I stopped in Allihies and was briefly locked in the copper mining museum when they closed, which seemed rather fitting. These early miners had it tough. One of the things I'm learning is how tough life used to be, in every walk of life.

I stopped in Bantry and was most notable for the Rugby game I watched at a pub, which was good fun. Ireland is doing well in football (soccer) and rugby this year. I spoiled a bowl of cereal with lumpy milk from the fridge, but was able to get a good lunch on the road once the supermarkets opened that afternoon.

My last stop in Conakilty turned into a rather inebriated affair where I met up with some Irish Germans and closed the bar around midnight. Good company, live music, coal fire, definitely hung over on the relatively short ride to Cork... I didn't even bother looking for the bottle.

Cork is a fairly large city with a lot going on. There is great shopping district downtown, with good mix of traditional and modern offerings. Some good music in the streets too. There are also a lot of pretty girls, fairly high proportion, I'd say. They also have a bike share program and some inconsistent bike lanes that is encouraging. Seeing as I finally found a cheep, clean place to stay, I've stayed here three nights to rest see the city.

I went to the city Gaol (Jail) that closed in 1922, but was functional for nearly 100 years prior. The museum had mock-ups, really good manikins, and an interesting history of crime and punishment. It used to be tougher then it is now. Also interesting was the punitive system; some people were locked up for seemingly no reason at all, others never stood trial. Some people volunteered imprisonment to avoid starvation during the famine. Many were sent to prison ships to Australia or immigrated to America unable to find work after release. Good museum, definitely ranked up there in the spooky factor, especially areas that were unrestored.

I went to the “English Market” a large, and somewhat famous food market where independent sellers sell some really odd things at good prices. I love these markets. I made another Lamb Stew, but got talked into trying seaweed (Kelp) as a vegetable which was, Ok, I suppose. I toured a good sculpture park, did some bike tuning, went out with some of the Hostelers last night, reluctantly, for one beer only. I almost mailed my camping equipment home, but I believe I'll need it if I do.

I've reached the midpoint of the month, and I need to start watching the clock to make it to Dublin in time. I've also spent a day making plans for my return, so hopefully things are lined up for, and after touchdown.