Friday, May 23, 2014

Dresden

Dresden was one one of Rick Steve's recommendations on places to see in Germany, so I added it to my travels as I head south. There were lots of wooded areas on the map, so decided to try crash camping again, this time on my own terms. The first day was one of the best days I've had so far. I was fresh from two days rest, the weather cleared, and temperatures climbed to the 80's. It was hard to stop as I rolled through really pretty forested areas and remote villages. I got my GPS working in an acceptable fashion, which eliminated time wasting and annoying stops at every intersection. The only problem, I find, is I have no idea were I am; the street, town, is all a blur when you're running down way points. In the enjoyment of riding I developed a headache a little table salt was able to resolve (I was drinking plain water). I didn't realize until the next day I also got a light sunburn on my arms.

Crash camping was pretty rough. I found a well wooded spot away from any towns and fell asleep to the sound of wind turbines in the distance. Still, I did not sleep well and my diet was poor. I started feeling spacey the next day which a pastry and apple juice was able to resolve. Still, I was thankful to make the rest of the way to Drazen. I was surprised in that the landscape was quite rural right up to the town line. I doubted my GPS when it told me I had 5 miles to go, yet, I was on a single lane county road all by myself. But it was true. It lead me right to the hostel doorstep, saving a ton of time as compared to Berlin.

Like other cities, Dresden it was bombed out and rebuilt after WW2. Most historic buildings have been rebuilt with a combination of salvaged and new materials, giving the buildings a checkered appearance with singed tops. Still, there was plenty of amazing buildings, gardens, and cobblestone walkways to get lost in. The pedestrian areas and outdoor cafes are in every direction. This has probably been my favorite city so far, with Lubeck being second. It has plenty to see and is well appointed with lots of services, yet, also a manageable size and not overly intense or crowded. Streetcars (trams) and bicycles seems to be the preferred mode of transit. Dresden has a large university nearby, and has a hip artsy feel.

I did not get to the northern section where the “nightlife” is supposed to happen, because I was tired yesterday and I'm trying to get an responsible, early start tomorrow morning. Still, the weather calls for rain in the morning, so I may stay in Dresden one more night. I'm planning on heading the Czech Republic tomorrow, and have just scratched the surface of conversational Czech. I think I'll have to give myself extra time, and perhaps two days to get to Prague though it's only 85 miles.

Personal reflections have not been forthcoming. I did have a chance to talk to someone over breakfast this morning, which is a bit of an oddity, and it was nice to have company. If anything, I'm getting frustrated at not knowing what is going on, or what signs say, or unable to remember street names etc. I feel like I'm bothering talk to people when I use a language they don't know or don't prefer. I only really feel that I'm welcome when I'm paying out. There has not been an overwhelming interest, friendlessness, or hospitality I was hoping for, and even smiles on the street are turned away like I'd expect in New York City. Fortunately, years of living on my own has hardened me to these things, and I don't feel overwhelming lonely but more detached then I was before. We'll have to see how this pans out. I am looking forward to English speaking countries for this reason.

1 Comments:

At May 24, 2014 at 10:24 PM , Anonymous Anonymous said...

hi keith,
how are you? i was surprised to read in your latest post from dresden that people are pretty outwardly unfriendly? that surprises me. that aside, i am in trieste and was planning to head north, but am put off by the flooding in prague, i heard dresden, salzburg, etc. what has been your experience? have the news blown it out of proportion? thanx, matt card mcard1956@gmail.com

 

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