Shot out of the Skye

Please see two postings due to lack of coverage:

The next day I was pretty wiped from riding, and took a half day off to visit the Eilean Donan castle, which a short walk from the hotel. The castle, like many others, had a long history of fighting the English, the Vikings, Celts, and inter-clan battles and it changed hands many times. Once there were many such castles along the coasts. The story goes there were two 50-cannon ships laying siege to the castle for days, but they gave up trying to penetrate the 12 foot thick stone walls, instead deciding to blow it up with twenty some odd barrels of gunpowder. The castle was in ruin for years until it was restored by one of the clans heirs, and as such, much of the property is private. What they did not recreate, however, the iron maidens that hung from either side of the approach bridge which was detailed in the historical paintings. These were brutal times, with even more unsaid, I'm sure. The tour was more museum like, with paintings, artifacts, family trees etc. I think they sugarcoated it a bit. Narrow staircases wind between the walls access the upper levels, and I found these most curious, but are closed to the public safety reasons.

It was about noon when I left for the island of Skye, which is widely known as one of the most scenic areas of Scotland, where tall and steep mountains meet the sea. Due to my late start and poor weather, I decided to stop short of my destination, not realizing how popular Skye would be. I started looking around 3:00, and tried dozens of places of all types and rates that had no vacancy. Poor cell coverage and ongoing rain made the problem worse, until I was desperate to find something or another. I decided to get back off the island where there would be less crowds, and I did find a bed and breakfast about 10 miles away that worked out well. I even got some laundry done. I considered re-attempting the island the next day, but with more poor weather on the horizon, risk of lodging, and no firm plans, I decided it best to head out.

The next morning I took the ferry off the island. The rocking ship set off car alarms that I thought was both funny and annoying. Do people really think there car will be stolen on a ferry? From here I continued riding south. These areas are also remote, harboring some of the last remaining native forests and many historic lochs. I stopped to read many of the 'info-boards' that covered history and wildlife efforts. There is also warnings for “rapidly changing weather” to take to heed. Lack of infrastructure meant a widespread cash-only policy that caught me off guard, and I had to turn away from one B&B because of it.

Frankly, the elements were really starting to hammer me down. Rain, cold, wind, difficult riding, and lack of information made me more vulnerable then I'd like. A consistent lack of vacancies (and other services) and shortage of paper funds have made things more stressful. I have used my paper maps more then ever before, and internet calling has come in handy when only wifi is available. I have my rain gear, but I've seen people riding in plastic ponchos which makes me cringe. I fill me thermos every morning, which is great relief when the times are tough.

I was riding along one of these remote roads when I noticed a pounding from my rear wheel. I assumed there was something stuck on, or stuck to the tire, only to find out the tire was completely warn out by the coarse road surfaces. Some threads were showing through the tread, and the sidewalls were bulged out, such I didn't feel safe riding much further. This was out of cell coverage, and was one of those, “now what” moments. To be fair, one driver did offer to help, but I had already started on a plan out. I switched front and back tires, and reinforced the hole the best I could with tube patches and duct tape. I under inflated it, and gingerly rode to the closest hotel that would accept plastic, another night of desperation and great expense. After discussing the situation with the innkeeper, he suggested I take the bike on the bus to Fort Williams, and get to the bike shop there. The bus would not accept the bike, so I went on my own, bought the tire in town, and returned to install it later that same afternoon. It rained the whole day, so I didn't feel like I was missing out on much. I did see many streams and waterfalls along the way, that looked like white lines against the hills that went up into the fog. I plan on heading out again tomorrow morning, to the Island of Mull. I only hope the weather will cooperate. 

More photos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/121074638@N08/

Applecross

My first few days riding took a bit of getting used to. The heavy bike forced some low gears for what was an embarrassingly slow first day. But the weather was great, even somewhat warm for shorts and a teeshirt the first two days. I rode through Gairloch, and other remote coastal villages that may have gotten only gotten their first road less then 20 years ago. Some are still only accessible by boat. These quaint villages dot the coastline, where surprisingly large grassy mountains form a green backdrop against the sky. It was really nice riding. I saw at least a dozen other riders, most of them touring as I was, and made friends with some along the way. The roads are mountainous, and tend to roll down to a village, and back up around another loch, which has been interesting, and a bit exhausting, to see the sea rise and fall as I ride along.

It has been a difficult start. My first day ended when a 22mph headwind developed and I ducked into a roadside hotel that was frankly not very good. The next day went well, but was very long. You know you're in deep when drivers start giving you enthusiastic thumbs up. Exhaustion and isolation become worrying together, and though I was never alone or in any real danger, I started wishing for the end. Cresting a hill, and hoping to see your destination, only to see the another huge valley to cross with the road winding up the other side. There were some 'oh crap' moments.

I took a rest day before tackling Applecross mountain, which goes up and down about 2000 feet in 11 miles. The single lane road was simple to navigate, but varying levels of wind, swirling rain, and temperature drop made it a high exposure day. One person described the weather as simply “Scottish.” There were parts of the road where I had to stop and catch my breath every 100 yards or so. Poor visibility near the top got the lights out, and also limited views and pictures which was unfortunate. The decent had to be handled with care, but I can say I did Applecross mt, which is widely known bicycling achievement.

Most everywhere I've been has been out of cell reception. Businesses can sometimes offer slow or restricted satellite based wifi connections. This, along with today's rain, made it difficult to get information on the road, make phone calls and get lodging. Paper documents were difficult to use in the rain. Shielding maps from the rain with your body, you experience a new kind of frustration when water drips off the front of your helmet. Navigation has been easy enough as there simply aren't that many roads, and the GPS has been tucked away. Still, it was tough to find lodging today, and I'll try to do more planning going forward.

I have yet to pull out my camping equipment. I've been trying to treat myself good with plenty of good food, rest, take time to stretch, and generally taking care of myself for what have been trying first few days on the bike. So far, the hostels have provided better service for what I need, at a much lower cost then 'relaxing' hotels. I think I am mostly accustom to the climate, but it will take me another few days to get back into regular riding mode. Tomorrow I am visiting the famous Eilean Donan castle, then off to the isle of Skye where I have reservations, and a new rear bike tire on reserve for me. Hopefully I can get back in the swing of things!

Arriving at departure

The flights were pretty hectic. Changing airlines in DC required trains and buses, and a broken baggage conveyor delayed the flight overseas by nearly an hour. I felt bad for the guys throwing around bags in 90 degree heat. The flight was nearly empty and I had a whole row to myself. Some people laid down and slept. I could could not sleep, however I tried, maybe I was too excited, or maybe it was those annoying seat belt chimes that seem to get louder as the flight goes on. My late flight made me late for last connection, which was held for me as I arrived on my own bus from the terminal. It would have been really great if they managed to get my luggage on the same plane, but alas, I was left standing in the lost baggage line at Edinburgh airport. They were surprisingly kind and helpful. A strong English accent can put you at ease. I could not provide a forwarding address, but decided to stay in Edinburgh until my bags showed up.

I stayed at the same hostel again, which was cheap, but just what I needed with a good location right downtown. I bunked with a bunch of friendly Canadians. I was lucky to catch the fringe festival again, which was again a mind blowing array of performances throughout the city. I saw some stats such as 45,000 performances throughout the month at +300 venues, which generate some 250 million (pounds) for the city every year. Not bad. I saw three shows, a humerus satire on gentrification, a physic, and a comedian whom performed in the side room of a 'pub'. There were also street performers, magicians, jugglers, acrobats, drag queens, alien violinists, you never know what you'd see next. The weather was on and off, but a fine rain made it feel more authentic.

It felt good to be back. I appreciated it more. I was grateful to return, more comfortable in a city I was familiar, and more able to enjoy my surroundings while not worrying about cycling. I got a little choked up touring through old town, simply being there and embracing it all. A highlight was the military tattoo pipe bands that let out after a large event at the castle. This is as good as it gets. I recommend it for anyone who hasn't been. I checked off some famous old pubs that I missed my first time through, had some traditional food, and searched out some traditional music, and got a little lost walking home after my fourth pint. I also got to the city museum the next day before I got the call to pick up my bag at the airport. I was having a pretty good time for not planning to stay, but I felt the need to get on with it, and the next day I was on a bus to Inverness.

Inverness also was mostly how I remembered it, and I again stayed in the same hostel, where it was nice that some people remembered me. I took a double decker bus tour of the city, which was short, but set me up for an early dinner and time to do some work afterward. I ended up talking with a bunch of people at the hostel for most of the night. I also got to see my eye doctor the next day and catch up on, and perhaps close out my case. He seemed pleased and a bit relieved at my progress from when we met last. It was good to see him and the other folks at the hospital who helped me so much while I was there. I stopped at the supermarket for some fresh fruit, and caught a the next bus towards Ullapool, where I then got a ride from the bus stop to the hostel.

I was again taken back by the beauty of the scenery out the bus window, I again got choked up sometimes. It was good to see the people at the hostel again, who welcomed me in, and I think were surprised by my my gift of sweet tea Grits from South Carolina. There was reference to southwestern novels and Grits. We took some time to catch up before my stuff was pulled from storage, and everything was in good shape. I went through all my things, shook out, and aired some things on the wash line. I got rid of some expired or unnecessary things. Since I curtailed my plans to just Ireland, some of the crazier stuff like a GPS beacon, malaria medication, and water disinfection and storage equipment will not be necessary, and will be mailed home soon. The bike itself was parked happily in the garden shed along with a few other bikes. I pumped up the tires, oiled the chain, and replaced the tail light that had been broken previously. There is a bit of rust here and there, but nothing I'm really concerned about. It took it for a short test ride, and it rode smoothly. I expect to get any kinks out as I get going, hope nothing crops up. New tires are on order soon.

I decided to take a day before I started riding to simply explore the area. I was directed to Sail Mohr Mountain located just behind the hostel which ended up being a full day hike. The walking was not far or steep, but there was no trail, so I wondered through the grasses and planning my own route upwards, where I was again thwarted by some mean mountain animals with horns. Having nowhere higher to flee, they took an assertive stance at the summit, where I was OK stopping just sort of the top. There were no trees, so navigation was easy, and there were great views throughout. Walking through the grasses was slow and difficult, and there were some hidden holes boggy areas that made it a long day. I took great care not to injure myself. There really great waterfalls and swimming holes, and I'd be tempted to stay another day for these alone if the water was a bit warmer.

Now I'm back at the hostel enjoying some lentils and rice. I'll pack up gear again, and be ready to head out tomorrow morning. I've uploaded photos from today, and the tail end of last year to my flicker account for those of you who are interested.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/121074638@N08/

 

Opportunity cost

After nearly a year, I can safely say that I am feeling better enough to get on with life. The last year was one of the toughest, scariest, and disheartening years as I went through the ups and downs of harsh eye drops, as often as every 45 minutes, for months at a time. There was reinfection, many doctors appointments, some moping around, and generally a lot of sleeping and eating. My vision got so bad I was counting fingers at arms length, depending on contrast with the background. There were also some problems finding Scotland's medications in the US, forcing me to switch prescriptions midway. I was fortunate enough to find a good doctor, decent heath insurance, and avoid a corneal transplant that would have added a year to my recovery time. I've been off all drops for months now, but there is still some damage that is taking time to heal. The eye has somewhat asymmetrical nature, which causes a slight double vision or “ghosting” in the one eye, while the vision returned to about 20/70 clarity. These errors are not correctable by glasses. However, both of these features are slowly improving on their own, and should get better as years go by. There is still some dryness which causes sensitivity to light, but this too should also get better over time. All together I've accepted the outcome, and am glad that it has come far enough to be functional and resume normal activities. To be superficial, I'm glad that it looks normal, and I'm not left with an eye patch or something crazy. So please, for me, be careful with your eyes, and be extra careful with contact lenses.

I did manage to keep busy over the past year. When I was ill, I was so sensitive to light I didn't go outside much. To help pass the time, I took several of Coursera's online courses, including Design, Astronomy, and most notably, seven months of the Data Science program. This occupied at least a few hours a day, and took me mentally outside everything else that was going on. That in itself was a worthwhile break. These courses also found a good home on my resume, and has been a good talking point for jobs already.

As I started feeling better I started applying to jobs, and had at least one, one-eye interview for a job I did not get. I sent resumes throughout the country, focusing on major cities, and keeping some prospects local to South Carolina as well. As a carry over, I took a part time job at a hardware store that kept me on my feet to some 12-14,000 steps per day. I now know where the bungee cords are located. I hesitated to take this job, knowing I was loosing valuable time when I should be working on other things, factor in the “opportunity cost.” So I limited my hours to around 30 a week, which did not seem to slow down my other prospects, and I had sporadic interest and several telephone interviews.

Throughout all of this, I owe many thanks to my folks who provided support through the whole ordeal. It was good to spend Christmas with them, my sister, brother in law, niece, nephew and other family and friends locally. We went on a family vacation to a water park, which is about all you can do in a South Carolina summer when its 100 deg in the shade. My folks also provided food and board, which left me with just few expenses to shoulder, such as my health insurance, storage unit, student loan et.all. I kept my spending down, buying just what I needed for school or work, and have been fairly well insulated from burning through my savings too quickly.

Now I've reached something of a juncture as I feel well enough to continue on with life, but still don't have much direction. My original plan was to look for work, and fall back to traveling again if nothing worked out. I really expected some job to come through. My original departure was marked by defiance and optimism, but now it feels more melodically with the feelings of rejection and self doubt which cloud my excitement. My difficulties fining work make me worry about the future, and force me to think hard what my next steps should be. The romantic part of of me wants to continue where I left off, get up, and ride on. The practical side of me says to settle down. Get a real job. These forces were, and are still very much are intact as I make my future plans. In the end of the day I really do want to get back on the bike. I watch the randomized picture slide show of my screen saver and realize what a rush it was, and how it all went by in a blur. No opportunities withstanding, there is low “opportunity cost” of riding more while I still can. I figure a month or two would not hurt in the long run, and I do feel rather victorious resuming, and ultimately ending the trip on my terms.

Once the decision was made, I underestimated what I needed to get going again. The past week has been full of running around looking for specific equipment, getting my affairs in order, paging through tour books, and working to get my plans, tickets, and accounts secured. I've also been riding and swimming to help get back in shape, but I know I'll have to have a cautious start when resuming my trip. I wonder how it will feel to get rolling again.

I'm almost a year behind were I was last year, and the end of the season means Iceland and Norway are not conducive to riding, leaving Scotland and Ireland as the most suitable choices. The plan is to pick up the bike right where I left off, ride Scotland and west coast of the UK, before eventually taking a ferry to Ireland, where I'll do something of a counterclockwise circumnavigation, ending in Dublin for my flight home. I was last in Ireland in 2005 with a school trip, and it will be good to get back to cover new ground independently. There is also a ton of information about cycling in Ireland, and I plan to work through this all as I go. A shorter duration, and English language should make things easier as I head into the harder seasons of some very rainy areas. I also plan on getting rid of some of my more extreme equipment as the more remote locations are dropped from my itinerary. This should help simplify and perhaps lighten up my equipment load.

That's about all for now. I am tying up loose ends and getting ready for my flights in just two days!

Lastly, please let me know if you would like to receive my GPS locations and I can add your email address to my distribution list.