Austria and Riffler

After not really feeling well from the campsite, I decided to move to a hostel to get some more rest. I think it was the cold nights and marginal diet that really dragged things out. I moved to the Bavaria City Hostel, which was one of the nicest places I've stayed so far. It was right in the middle to town. I could hear people playing music in the streets from my second floor room, and it was nice to take an afternoon nap to the accordion or violin below. The hostel was very well decorated, and the staff went out of their way to make me feel comfortable... it was probably the nicest place I've stayed so far. I watched some talks online to pass time, and took short walks around the village to gauge my readiness. Once my achenes went away I was left with a dry cough that I thought was good enough.

I started riding the “ClaudiaAugusta” route that was supposedly used by the Romans to cross the Alps. There were some sections were wagon wheels are said to have rutted out the stones. However some scholars have repeated the experiment by rolling wooden wheels on stone and found only marginal wear after thousands of passes. Perhaps the ruts were chiseled out to help keep the wagons on the road? This is still up for debate. I kept thinking about how the roman road would compare to an optimized route using today's technology, but the autobahn way was never too far away.

The ride itself was not as hard as I'd imagined. It was a slow uphill climb to Fern Pass, which was the highpoint of this section of the route. The ride down was crazier, with tight turns on platforms built off the side of mountains, and what I would call winding roads (think Indian ladder trail). There was a concerted focus on where I wanted the bike to go, and I did not do much site seeing over my shoulder. Because of this I didn't get many pictures. I was probably going faster then I should have, too.

I had been dodging raindrops all day, and since I was still not feeling 100%, I went for another hostel just south of Imst. This hostel was a converted wagon and auto repair shop, and recently reopened after being renovated and converted into a hostel. I found it a bit creepy myself. I cooked the food I'd been carrying and slept like a stone in a room to myself.

I really would have liked to keep following the Claudia Augusta south, perhaps to Venice, but if I am to make it to the UK, I had to turn west and start moving on Switzerland and France.

I plotted a route directly west and was treated to some epic scenery that made me feel like I was riding through a puzzle. Austria is proving to be one of the most challenging but rewarding places I've been so far. I went through the town of Landback and saw a place that offered rafting and “canyoning” tours. Not wanting to ride past all the attractions, I decided to do a little side trip away from the bicycle and before the expense of Switzerland. Thought there were no raft trips offered for that day, but I did mention that I wanted to do some hiking. After some discussion and reviewing maps, the shop owner set me up with some rental boots (better then my bike shoes or Crocks) and helmet for one of the nearby peaks. He said it'd be walkable and well traveled, and I went on his advice.

The bike ride to the start of the trail was tough in itself. Thought it was less then 10 miles from the shop, it was a tough 10 miles. I stopped at a restaurant for one last quality meal, and they also provided me with a map of the area since the tourist info office was already closed. I stopped at the market to get some food, then started up the dirt road into the mountains. I dropped into the lowest gear I had and kept it there. Most areas were rideable, some areas required standing to get enough torque. Note that my bike has pretty low gearing, such as that of a mountain bike, and standing in the lowest gear means some serious torque. I did not fall over in my cleats as I was worried, but the slow speeds made the bike wobbly. Some of the loose gravel made the front wheel lift and back wheel skid, and it was generally a very long and slow climb where I stopped to rest every 50 to 100 yards to catch my breath. I did walk the bike a bit, but I found this harder then riding and ended up riding as much of the way.

 

Eventually I reached the footpath that went off roadway. I switched into hiking cloths, put on my rental boots, and took one pannier (with shoulder strap) full of food, water, but mostly clothing. Everything else was stashed behind a bounder out of sight from the road, with my cable lock about it all.

The hike was a present switch from bike riding, but my energy was running low and time was running short. The mountain hut was only about 2km from the road, but it was a moderately steep path that opened up the dirt road and nearby creek into a truly vast landscape. It really was very amazing, and I tried to take lots of pictures. I reached the Edmond-Graf mountain hut at about 7:00, where I had a hot meal and a place to sleep. It was in interesting experience staying at a mountain hut. They had most of the amenities you'd expect, even a bar, but no hot water or showers. A picture of the owner was behind the bar on hist final accent of Everest.

The next morning I started the last leg towards Hoher Riffler, one of the highest peaks in the area at 3168m (almost a 10,000 footer). I was well into snow at this time, but the clear day was promising. I sortof regret not making a snow angle in the glacier. About an hour into my journey I had one of the closer calls of the trip when I ran across some mountain rams. I'm not sure the species, but they are big (about the size of donkey), four legged mountain grazers that live in on the alpine grass, and have big curved horns. I was hiking alone and being admittedly quiet when I turned the corner and snuck up on a group of these guys. I think we surprised each other. Most chirped and ran away but this one guy was not so timid and lowered his horns at me. He was about 40 feet away and up on some rocks. I dropped my posture to be non threatening, and slowly moved back down the trail and he tracked me in his posture. When I was about 100 feet away I stopped and waited him out. He stood his ground, eventually relaxed posture, and after about 20 minutes went away to join the others who had fled, allowing me to continue onwards. Still, my heart was beating fast as I had some real fears of being rammed off the mountain. Perhaps bear bells work for other animals as well? From then on I made a point of announcing my presence with clapping my hands, calling out, and eventually amateur yodeling. I find yodeling works better as you go higher and the mountains become steeper with less foliage, but I was never able to hit the right notes to get any sort of residence in the echo.

As I assented I found a trail that was neither walkable or well traveled. Indeed I was alone on a trail that looked unbroken, though I was technically two days pre-hiking season. The stones were jagged and steep, and the snow was loose and granular. The episode with the ram left me tense, and my heart rate was a little higher then I expected. I think my nerves were getting to me hiking in a remote area, and I remembered that altitude sickness may start to  be a factor at these elevations.

I got to a section that required traversing a steep snow covered area. I knew this was the end of the line for me, my abilities, and equipment, and I made the decision to turn around there. I was probably a quarter mile from the top, but it really was just too dangerous to continue. I did try a few steps in the alpine snow in a different area; my rubber boots sank down unevenly, tipped sideways, and skid out from under my body. “No” turned into “hell no” at that point and I don't regret my decision to turn around. I gave it my best and have no regrets. This was a big adventure for me, and a big jump in the challenges I undertook. I got down to the bottom without a scratch. I may try climbing again in Switzerland, perhaps with a guide. I was an odd day as I was fighting glaciers in the morning, and avoiding the afternoon heat in the town below after a fast decent. The bike handled well from mountain to road, and I was careful to go easy on my wheels, rims, and tires with such a load. The disk breaks warmed up nicely. Now I'm back in town, showered up, have beer to drink, and some time to relax and start planning for whatever lays ahead tomorrow.

Sick Leave

I've reached the second hurtle of this trip that has taken the form or illness. I was feeling fine until my first night near the mountains, where cold nighttime temperatures brought on a sore throat, and later body aches and pains. I decided not to go into Austria until I was feeling ready to take on such a challenge. I rested an extra day, then two... I'm on day four right of rest now. Having a flexible schedule has its upsides, but I can't help but to think of the time I'm using up, or things I'll have to skip to still meet the three month Schengen time limit.

I have been feeling up and down, and wonder if I've contract more then one illness at a time. I've been camping throughout my recovery, which has made some things harder. The weather has generally been good. There are good amenities at the camp, including a store, restaurant, even a spa if I wanted to pay extra. I did have to bicycle into town to replenish the few cough drops I brought with me, but I've pretty much devoted myself to rest and recovery in order to to leave as soon as possible. Perhaps the hardest part was sitting still where my adventure awaits, along with good water and mountain activities. Boredom set in. I didn't even bring a book to read. Fortunately there is free wifi, and I spent a little too much time playing stupid games.

The least I can say is this is one of the most epic camp sites I've stayed at. The photos of the mountains were taken from just a few feet outside my tent, and the waterfront has lots of activity also. People have been very nice. Austrian accents crack me up. I had time to cook myself a good fish stew from supplies at the local market. I was told this morning that I had stayed the maximum time, so we'll have to see what happens tomorrow. If I'm feeling well I may head off into Austria, ask for an exception, or I go to a nearby hostel to finish my recovery. Maybe some time at the spa would help?

End of Romantic Road, plus side trips.

I left Donuworth without any real plans for the day. The Romantic Road went through some nice wooded areas, and a local swimming spot that was tempting in the warm weather. German girls are beautiful and fit. The bike paths in Germany are amazing, cutting their way through very scenic and sometime remote areas. I even saw the whitewater solemn course used in the 1972 Olympics. The Romantic Road is sometimes miss marked, and I'm glad I had the GPS for backup. The bike responded nicely to the weight I removed, and I picked up 2-3 mph on cruising speed, which may be another 20 miles per day.

I came to the point in my trip where I had to make the decision ongoing to Munich. I hadn't planned on going, and it was a big divergence from my route, but I figured I that I'm so close I might as well head over. It was, however, off my GPS route, and required turn by turn directions by checking my phone's maps. I rode with a local who showed me through the first village where he lived. From there, I followed dirt roads that ran alongside the railroad lines, thinking this would be a direct way into the city. I tried to capture a video of a high speed train blowing over my shoulder, but I think you can picture this. Although the distance was fairly short, I took some wrong turns and was not making good time. It was getting late, I was getting hungry, and I still had no idea of where to stay for the night. Having flashbacks of Berlin, I decided to spend the 7 euro and take the local train the last few miles into the city, where I was able to find a Hostel near the central station. The hostel had 40 person rooms, but they were mostly empty. I did meet some Americans, who were nice to talk with, but some seemed like they were into the bars too much... like the kind of people I came half way around the world to get away from.

I decided to stay in Munich at least one full day. I again turned to Rick Steve and some maps from reception to plan my next day through the local markets, the royal palace, and Hofbrahouse. The local markets were basically what I expected. Interestingly, local tax law has been adjusted allow older and local business to remain in business, so there were woodcarvers, cobblers, and other professions you wouldn't ordinary see. Some things did surprise me. There were still many stores selling traditional clothing (aka “lederhosen” etc). I would have thought these went out of style years ago, but they are very much still in fashion. There were also a lot of outdoors stores, selling everything from climbing, running, roller blading, and surf gear (which I thought was odd for Germany). Roller blading is very popular here. I did buy a new bike chain as the one I was using was original and had seen some hard use. There were also some amazing street performers playing the xylophone.

The royal residence filled out the cultural part of the day. Like other structures, it was bombed and rebuilt, and had a long history of add-ons and alterations. This was in many ways like the royal homes in Worzburg, in highly detailed barroke and Rokoko styling. Perhaps most memorable was the relics, which contained (supposed) remains of saints such as John the Baptist, bone, wood, and other fragments inclosed in glass and gold cases. These gave the rulers legitimacy, and a closer connection to the gods. These were all in one vaulted room, so I said a prayer, and was on my way.

I finished the day with a trip to Hofbrahouse, a famous beer hall where they really do serve 12 letters of beer at a time. Live ompa music filled a large and noisy hall where people from around the world mixed, some of which in traditional cloths. I slipped and asked for a “pint” which got me a serious eye roll from the waitress who brought me a letter mug. It was somewhat hard to find your way alone in such a place where the smallest table seats 12. I did meetup with another tour group, mostly from Australia, and spend a good chunk of the night chatting with them.

Although there were other things worth seeing, such as the Holocaust memorial, I decided to leave Munich the next morning, just a little hungover from the night before. The run out of the city was simple and easy, and I rejoined the Romantic Route quickly, where I turned south again. Still, I had no idea of where to stay, so when I ran across a campsite I decided to stay for the night. They offered a big, somewhat American style bar-B-que, where I had two plates worth of food. I shared a table with some very nice people from Denmark, and we talked for several hours on everything from language, food, economics, politics etc. etc. It was a very nice evening.

I left very early the next morning wanting to finish the Romantic Road. This turned out to be one of the most epic riding days I've ever had. The climbing started, and mountains were in he distance. Rolling farmland came up, and cowbells seemed omnidirectional. Part of the path went through a cow and horse pasture, and it was intimidating to ride through herds of animals. I almost took a selfie, but decided to roll along slowly and silently. On recommendation of a friend, I did take another detour through Oberamegau. Large mountains stand in all directions at the bottom of ski slopes, and a nice little town in between. I was able to stop a bakery and grab lunch before backtracking over some gravely mountain roads (some of which were marked as ski paths) back to the Romantic Road.

The final stretch of the Romantic Road was something to write home about. The views of pastures and giant mountains in the distance was truly breathtaking. I had a nice tailwind pushing me through the last ten miles of open farms and imposing mountains; some of which went right up through the partly cloudy sky. Perhaps even more surprising was the Forggensee (lake) which had an aqua blue color that could only be compared to the Caribbean waters. My reason for coming, of course, was to see the Neuschwantein castle. Unlike other castles built for protection, this castle was built for pleasure by royalty with a big dreams and deep pockets. King Ludwick was considered mad, and died a mysterious and early death before the castle's completion, but the castle still makes for a very impressive tour. It is said that Walt Disney used this castle for designing the one in the US, and there is a resemblance. I took the tour, but pictures are only allowed from outside. Most of the inside was not finished, but what was is equal in grandeur; large throne rooms and banquet halls, with ornate wood carvings, window treatments, and mosaic floors. Detailed paintings cover the walls from christian or mythological stories. On a side note, a huge chunk of this trip has tested my biblical knowledge; the apostles, saints, and stations of the cross etc.

Most alluring about this area is the mountains and lakes. Huge mountains draw rock climbers, hikers, and paraglidrs are frequent in the skies. On the lake, sailboats, windsurfers, and kite borders are in the dozens at any time, and cyclists of all types hit the streets. This is definitively a place I could spend a few days, but I have yet to decide when I will head to Austria. Although the views are impressive, even from my campsite, they are also very intimidating and promise to be one of the biggest challenges of the trip, perhaps my life? But why back down now?

Romantic Road 1

The next part of my trip followed along the “Romantic Road,” a signed route that strings together some of Germany's attractions. I was actually following the “Romantic Bike Path” which came some time later, and runs adjacent to the road, which is really more of a highway. Armed with GPS data, travel maps, and a signed route, I felt more prepared then ever. Although neither the GPS or signs were perfect, I was able to find my way along OK using both. There were also a lot of other bicycle tourists on the path, so much so that bicycle traffic centered around towns, which again made it easier to navigate. Guided groups of 20 or more traveled in caravans, as well as families with kids. The path is really doing a nice job at stringing together many nice towns, and this has been the most scenic part of the trip so far. I could only take pictures of some of the attractions along the way, but have uploaded what I have.

Of special importance is Rothenburg, which is something of a tourist trap, but is the largest and most

well preserved midevil city I've been to. English guides describe the town's features in a series of signposts for what isn't self evident. Still, this is an active city, and it's interesting to see how the drained mote was turned into a walking path, and citizens turned fortifications into businesses and dwellings. Coincidentally, I was there for part of a major festival that brought some 700 reenactors, musicians, and other activities to town. There were crafts, food, and a parade that ended in a period encampment and neighboring music and beer fest. I camped nearby and was able to spend a little more on beer then I would have otherwise. I also eyed a padded leather armor for myself, but it would be too hot on the bike.

Although the marked path uses few roads and has very little traffic, there has also been a shortage of amenities along the way. The path between towns has been rolling farmland, and temperatures have reached the 90's for the past few days. Although I can't complain about the rain, drinking water, sunblock, and a balance of salt and sugars have been the key issues when riding in highly exposed farmland. I even broke out my geeky sun hat. To beat the heat, I got an early start yesterday and was on the road by six. By noon I had reached Nordlingen, put the bike in a locker, and took a few hours to try to stay in the shade. I followed the walking tour of the city, including a path on top of the city's outer wall. I got some lunch and a ice cream, and was on the road by three in the afternoon.

It's not my intention to ride past these attractions, so I've been going slow. I took a rest day today in Doauworth, to do laundry and get some quality rest; it was supposed to be rainy today anyway. On a logistical note, I had the opportunity to talk many experienced bike tourists who conformed that I was carrying too much. Not wanting to throw out a bunch at once, I packaged a box back to the US which was expensive, but much less then replacing the contents later. I dropped one whole bag here, and maybe 15-20lbs of gear. I also had the bike's brakes and shifters adjusted by a bike shop, as they've been giving me more problems as the terrain is getting hillier. Tomorrow I continue on the Romantic Bike Path, and start planning for Austria.

Getting on my feet in Wurzburg

The ride to Wurzburg was very nice. There were plenty of downhills that made me feel like superman maintaining high average speeds. Google lead me a bit stray when I got lost on some dirt roads that crisscrossed agricultural fields, but I was eventually able to find my way out. The last leg of my journey lead me along a nice bike path by the Main river. It was quite busy with other bikers, people skating, walkers, etc. Steep hills with vineyards were on either side.

Since my wallet was gone, I had a limited amount of cash to live on until my replacement cards arrived. To help save money, I stayed at a no frills camp site the first three nights. I stopped at the local store and used my camping stove to make basic meals which saved me from going out to eat. One thing that was working for me was the weather; comfortably warm during the day, nice and cool at night. The campsite was within walking distance from the city, and I did some touring on foot the first three days. The most dominant spectacle of the city is the Fortress Marienberg,

which dominates the hilltop on the west side of the river. After a bit of a climb to the top, the fortress was impressive in size and complexity. It would be difficult to imagine laying siege on it, or even climbing to it in 50 lbs of armor and weaponry. Layers of steep walls surround each side, surrounded by, of course, more vineyards. There are good views of the waterway and city from the castle walls and “princes garden.”

I also checked out the city which was on par with what I've seen in other cities; busy pedestrian plazas, streetcars, and an overwhelming amount of history and architecture. I did spend some money to tour the Residence Palace of Wurzburg,

and though pictures were not allowed, there was some really amazing paintings, sculptures, and interior design in the intricate “baroque” style. The city was founded by a bishop-prince and there is a strong religious presence in the city. There are 88 churches, and church bells seem to be every 15 minutes. The church next to the hostel start at 7:00 am, making an alarm clock unnecessary. The sound of real bells so close is something of an experience itself.

I checked into the hostel where my replacement cards were being sent. They were on rush order, but I had no idea when they would arrive. Further, I had to sign for each package, so I was stuck waiting in the lobby. Fortunately I only had to wait a little over a day to get going again. Although I was never really in any hardship, it was very unsettling position. The hostel made an exception for me to pay when I checked out, which saved me cash and allowed me to eat well.

After my cars arrived, I felt like a weight had been lifted from my shoulders and I was finally able to relax again. I did one last day of touring in the city, and was finally able to sample some of the wine the region is famous for. I also bought a new rear tire for my bike. I stopped at the tourist info office and picked up information on the “romantic road” which I will be following south starting tomorrow morning. It feels like things are back on track again.

I've also uploaded more pictures with comments/descriptions where appropriate.