Romantic Road 1
Of special importance is Rothenburg,
which is something of a tourist trap, but is the largest and most
well preserved midevil city I've been to. English guides describe the town's features in a series of signposts for what isn't self evident. Still, this is an active city, and it's interesting to see how the drained mote was turned into a walking path, and citizens turned fortifications into businesses and dwellings. Coincidentally, I was there for part of a major festival that brought some 700 reenactors, musicians, and other activities to town. There were crafts, food, and a parade that ended in a period encampment and neighboring music and beer fest. I camped nearby and was able to spend a little more on beer then I would have otherwise. I also eyed a padded leather armor for myself, but it would be too hot on the bike.
Although the marked path uses few roads
and has very little traffic, there has also been a shortage of
amenities along the way. The path between towns has been rolling
farmland, and temperatures have reached the 90's for the past few
days. Although I can't complain about the rain, drinking water,
sunblock, and a balance of salt and sugars have been the key issues
when riding in highly exposed farmland. I even broke out my geeky sun
hat. To beat the heat, I got an early start yesterday and was on the
road by six. By noon I had reached Nordlingen, put the bike in a
locker, and took a few hours to try to stay in the shade. I followed
the walking tour of the city, including a path on top of the city's
outer wall. I got some lunch and a ice cream, and was on the road by
three in the afternoon.
It's not my intention to ride past
these attractions, so I've been going slow. I took a rest day today
in Doauworth, to do laundry and get some quality rest; it was
supposed to be rainy today anyway. On a logistical note, I had the
opportunity to talk many experienced bike tourists who conformed that
I was carrying too much. Not wanting to throw out a bunch at once, I
packaged a box back to the US which was expensive, but much less then
replacing the contents later. I dropped one whole bag here, and maybe
15-20lbs of gear. I also had the bike's brakes and shifters adjusted
by a bike shop, as they've been giving me more problems as the
terrain is getting hillier. Tomorrow I continue on the Romantic Bike
Path, and start planning for Austria.
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