Romantic Road 1
The next part of my trip followed along
the “Romantic Road,” a signed route that strings together some of
Germany's attractions. I was actually following the “Romantic Bike
Path” which came some time later, and runs adjacent to the road,
which is really more of a highway. Armed with GPS data, travel maps,
and a signed route, I felt more prepared then ever. Although neither
the GPS or signs were perfect, I was able to find my way along OK
using both. There were also a lot of other bicycle tourists on the
path, so much so that bicycle traffic centered around towns, which
again made it easier to navigate. Guided groups of 20 or more
traveled in caravans, as well as families with kids. The path is
really doing a nice job at stringing together many nice towns, and
this has been the most scenic part of the trip so far. I could only
take pictures of some of the attractions along the way, but have
uploaded what I have.
Of special importance is Rothenburg,
which is something of a tourist trap, but is the largest and most
well preserved midevil city I've been to. English guides describe the town's features in a series of signposts for what isn't self evident. Still, this is an active city, and it's interesting to see how the drained mote was turned into a walking path, and citizens turned fortifications into businesses and dwellings. Coincidentally, I was there for part of a major festival that brought some 700 reenactors, musicians, and other activities to town. There were crafts, food, and a parade that ended in a period encampment and neighboring music and beer fest. I camped nearby and was able to spend a little more on beer then I would have otherwise. I also eyed a padded leather armor for myself, but it would be too hot on the bike.
Although the marked path uses few roads
and has very little traffic, there has also been a shortage of
amenities along the way. The path between towns has been rolling
farmland, and temperatures have reached the 90's for the past few
days. Although I can't complain about the rain, drinking water,
sunblock, and a balance of salt and sugars have been the key issues
when riding in highly exposed farmland. I even broke out my geeky sun
hat. To beat the heat, I got an early start yesterday and was on the
road by six. By noon I had reached Nordlingen, put the bike in a
locker, and took a few hours to try to stay in the shade. I followed
the walking tour of the city, including a path on top of the city's
outer wall. I got some lunch and a ice cream, and was on the road by
three in the afternoon.
It's not my intention to ride past
these attractions, so I've been going slow. I took a rest day today
in Doauworth, to do laundry and get some quality rest; it was
supposed to be rainy today anyway. On a logistical note, I had the
opportunity to talk many experienced bike tourists who conformed that
I was carrying too much. Not wanting to throw out a bunch at once, I
packaged a box back to the US which was expensive, but much less then
replacing the contents later. I dropped one whole bag here, and maybe
15-20lbs of gear. I also had the bike's brakes and shifters adjusted
by a bike shop, as they've been giving me more problems as the
terrain is getting hillier. Tomorrow I continue on the Romantic Bike
Path, and start planning for Austria.
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