Swiss Mist
After much debate, I decided to head
into the mountains despite the rain. Both of the other cyclists I
stayed with in the hostel were heading out, and I have to brag a bit
when I say I was better prepared then them with full rain gear,
fenders, etc. Also, the hostel didn't have much going on, and it
would have been a very slow day to waste when I am already limited in
time.
The climb over Furka pass would be
slightly higher then the day before, and again took me over a
baffling amount of switchbacks and mountain side climbs. It was an
invigorating challenge that I took on fully. One new hazard was the
lack of guardrails; short posts were widely spaced with no horizontal
members such that a bicycle, or motorcycle, would have little
protection from some pretty severe drops. I took a bit more of the
lane, and again had to watch where I wanted to go, without too much
sightseeing while moving. I stopped to take pictures and catch my
breath. The views were amazing. It was neat to look over the edge and
see the past six segments of road from above. Some parts of the pass
were used in early James Bond films. An early section of the pass had
a golf tee off to the side, with a white flag far below.
Weather was a bit of an issue. I was
generally warm when climbing in the misting rain, but started to pass
pockets of snow before I reached the top, where foggy and rainy
weather prevailed through the decent. Warm weather gear under rain
gear seemed to do the trick, and I was fairly comfortable throughout.
I was glad it did not snow, and the roads were not icy, but the fog
was problematic for drivers and my own lines of sight. The bike
lights went on which probably helped. Some parts of the decent were
very steep, and limited visibility made it harder to spot road
hazards... entire hairpin turns seemed to come up a whole lot faster.
This was a bit white knuckled experience, so again, I did take many
pictures (though this would have made a good u tube video). I will
say, however, that the dirt road up Mt. Riffler was more challenging
then either of these two climbs, both I steepness and general road
conditions.
Once I descended from the clouds, the
road rolled out in a much more manageable experience through the
country side, where I was able to pick up good speed and distance.
The rain seemed to be getting steadier, and I managed a deal in a
restaurant B&B in the city of Brig below market value. As a side
note, there were a ton of restaurants and hotels that were closed
along the way. Traveling off season has some benefits, but sometimes
it's hard to find a place that's open.
Personally, this has been the most
physically demanding part of the trip. I can't remember when I had a
full day of rest between climbing over mountains and my body is
starting to feel it. I find myself forgetting things or getting
frustrated easily when I am tired. I will say the bike is much faster
and responsive then when I started, both for dropping equipment
weight and my own fitness levels. Still, the snow, rain, wind, and
exhaustive work have me hankering for a mixed drink on a sunny
poolside before continuing on. The mountains were tough and
worthwhile, and I'm glad I got to do them in the summer. Yet I also
look forward to warm valleys of France as I try to learn some polite
phrases, and string together a route to the UK.
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